Sacred Perfume: White Sage, Frankincense and Myrrh

http://itherapeutate.weebly.com/1/post/2014/04/bms-creating-sacred-spaces.html

Scent Memory: A Mother’s Portrait

Frances Louise Hughes by Rodney Hughes

Au de Kolon by TOULOUR

How about starting 2017 on a high note with Au de Kolon by Canadian based perfumery TOULOUR. I have to admit this fragrance challenged my notion of what a “Natural” perfume is and should represent. However, I think it warrants an honorable mention.

First, just taking a look at the line up of notes: Mint, Honeydew Melon, Bergamot, Lemon, Citral, Civet Absolute, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Vetiver, Fir, Lavender, Clove, Green Leaves, it features many botanical notes. However, the Civet Absolute along with a few others got me thinking, “What is Natural Perfume?” What I will say although this Au de Kolon is certified as natural by TOULOUR, I would have to place it in a separate category for the simple fact it includes; Honeydew Melon, Green Leaves and Civet.

Being a Natural Perfumer working exclusively with botanical ingredients, I have to say certainly that, “natural” perfumery is fast becoming an entirely separate category from “botanical” perfumery.

Civet, that animalistic note given to many perfumes to introduce the character of sensuality and attraction. This component actually is considered “natural” being derived from the perineal gland of this mostly nocturnal mammal from tropical Asia and Africa. We commonly refer to it as Musk and boy are we crazy about this note! It can contribute just the right amount of stinky to any fragrant blend making the difference between a nice perfume and a wonderful creation. And yes, Au de Kolon by TOULOUR has this note which adds depth and a spiciness to this historical blend of Eau de Cologne. It remains watery or Marine as do most interpretations of the classic eau de cologne. However, this one has the sharp peppery, spice of Clove which figures strongly among the very green notes that are prominent throughout.

The opening on Au de Kolon is well in keeping with the classic notion, it has loads of citrus, however it moves into a Minty transition with Fir that balances the Lemon, Bergamot and Citral. It makes the top action going on in this fragrance extremely masculine, but slightly smooth around the edges by introducing the note of Honeydew Melon. While the top and middle notes dominate this classic take on the Eau de Cologne, the whole body is held so slightly together by the Patchouli, Oakmoss and Vetiver whiffing up from the bottom. The combining of these three notes serve as a prefect balance to the citrus top while being harmonized by a lavender core.

Overall, the silage of this fragrance is average and last 3-4 hours at best which is pretty much the expectation based on it being a cologne. Au de Kolon by Toulour will serve as a nice addition to any man’s fragrance wardrobe, its fresh, very masculine and spicy.

Rodney Hughes, Perfumer/Writer

Written for Ca Fleure Bon 

 

PARFUM

AMERICAN PERFUME: a story untold

LE FUMOIR

PARFUM

A dying Rose dominates the air with a song
Burning for the Nose to listen,

It crys for mercy clinging to the physical
While death rises, claiming beauty for itself.

c.1990 Rodney Fitzgerald Hughes, All Rights Reserved

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Ca Fleure Bon: Profiles In American Perfumery

Ca Fleure Bon: Profiles In American Perfumery

Rodney Hughes of Therapeutate Parfums

Profile: I was born in Shreveport, Louisiana to ecstatic parents, who had just about given up on having children, after eight years of trying to conceive. Both my parents were creative, my dad a Barber, and my mom a Cosmetologist. She was a hair colorist; I can still remember the acrid smell of lye based products use in those day.

My mother would sit with me for hours demonstrating how to color in my coloring books. I had books with two hundreds of pages, along with 164 Crayola Crayons to explore. Now, whenever I smell beeswax absolute it reminds me of those unforgettable moments with her.

Rodney’s mother FLH

My fascination with art continued with my second grade teacher who taught me to write in cursive; forming of letters and script ignited a sort of fancy-full fire in me, one that I could now combine with color. This is what informed my earliest influences as an artist.

By the age of eight, I had extraordinary independence, and had distinct aesthetics; I wouldn’t allow anyone to choose my clothes, and did my own ironing. This began a lifelong love affair with clothing and fashion. The early memoires of my grandmother getting dressed for a party are still fresh in my mind, all the layers of under garments- girdles, stockings, garters that went on before her pale pink silk gown. Estee Lauder’s Youth Dew powder and fragrance was the crowning moment before putting on her dress.

I moved to the Big Apple to study Art and Design at Pratt Institute. This was a dream come true. Upon graduation, I remained in the fashion industry for nearly 20 years designing apparel and home products for many prominate brands. My experience in fashion took me to many destinations around the world and certainly those travels influence me. Having traveled to Sri Lanka, I danced along the shore of the Indian Ocean inspired my love of the fragrance L’Autre by Diptyque and this experience is very much present in the fragrance Taprobaine. Both are very usual fragrances that remind of me of the humidity, spices, sour fruit and the tropical flowers encountered in Colombo.

However, It wasn’t fashion, but healing that opened the door for me into the world of natural perfumery. I spent much of my adult years on airplanes breathing recycled air, suffering from fatigue and jet lag, which began to affect my health and wellbeing. This lead me to read many books on aromatherapy, and began my experimentation with essential oils and the studying of Reiki. Using this knowledge was beneficial to me, so I began offering it to my Reiki clients by composing synergistic aromatic blends that allowed them to continuing healing well after having received Reiki.

My first teacher was an RN and certified aromatherapist. I later discovered she had been taught the Art of Natural Perfumery by Kathryn Degraff. Her husband was also a PhD Chemist. From there it was an obvious progression for me to continue my studies in natural perfumery with both Debbie and Howard Freund. I went on to title my brand to honor the Egyptian Therapeutae, which has influenced our western history of healing.

Rodney lives and creates perfumes in Bed-Stuy: Digging out of the Polar Vortex

On American Perfumery: I live and work in Bedstuy, Brooklyn, an eclectic neighborhood reflecting the essence of cultural diversity. Being an artisan in America at this time I believe is essential to our relevance on the global stage. I think it’s the artisans and  the small merchants that will allow us to be a country coming back from the brink of ruin brought down by giant faceless corporations. It is equally important to me to be an example for my community and sharing my art and healing with those who need it most. For me this is American, to dream big, work hard  to achieve whatever goals you set. Big shoes to walk in, but that is how we are “Made in America.”

  After Giovanni Bellini’s “St. Francis in the Desert” / from the series “Black Light” Kehinde Wiley, New York Artist

Favorite American Artist:  I love the painter Kehinde Wiley, his work excites me. He portrays black men and hip hop artists by framing them in a way unlike anyone on the art scene today. His art speaks to realism and past Master’s works on many levels, but uses the metaphor and symbolism of floral motifs to convey other ideas. This play on realism intertwined with nature symbolism is a waft of perfume painted and caught in motion. The Art of Perfumery exists in this manner for me as a perfumer, but on the opposite spectrum, it’s the unseen manifest upon our senses. Having chosen to work in Naturals speaks to the respect I have for nature and the marriage between the earth and all of us.

–Rodney Hughes, Natural Perfumer forTherapeutate Parfums

Editor’s Note: Rodney is a former Natural Perfume Editor for CaFleureBon from 2010-2011 and his style was pure poetry. If you are new to Cafleurebon I encourage you to read them, including Mandy Aftel’s Trevert , Anya McCoy’s Moondance , Rodney was part of our founding team here and  took part in the Natural Perfumers Guild Mystery of Musk Project, with this lyrical ode to Alexandra Balahoutis’ entry Temple of Musk. Most memorable for me was his  tribute to his Mother, Frances –Michelyn Camen, Editor in Chief

Thanks to Rodney Hughes we have a US reader’s choice for ONE 30ML atomizer of these five special editions:   To be eligible, please leave a comment on what you found fascinating about Rodney and his path as well as your choice of fragrance. Draw ends March  3, 2014.

SUPPORT AMERICAN PERFUMERY

Please like CaFleureBon Profiles in American Perfumery on FACEBOOK ; and your entry will count as two.

We announce the winners on our site and on our Facebook page, so Like Cafleurebon and use our RSS option…or your dream prize wil be just spilled perfume

PARFUM

PARFUM

A dying Rose dominates the air with a song
Burning for the Nose to listen,

It crys for mercy clinging to the physical
While death rises, claiming beauty for itself.

c.1990 Rodney Fitzgerald Hughes, All Rights Reserved

GREEN FRAGRANCE HOUSE GOES FLAGSHIP

Hello,

Just wanted to give you a heads-up on the exciting things to come at Therapeutate Parfums.

We are campaigning to raise funds to open our first free standing store and would like to have your support.

Please visit our ambitious and completely possible undertaking to fund the building of a flagship store/ laboratory to house this earth friendly fragrance company.

If you are not familiar with our brand, we began right here in Brooklyn in 2007. Our motto from the very beginning has been “Why can’t Green Fragrance be Luxury?’ And with each new scent we produce, we prove that it can be, from the complex potions to the flacon and packaging that house these sought after fragrances.

We are the first African-American fragrance house to be in the business of Bespoke Natural perfumes. And I am one of the few African descent males to venture out into the world of Luxury Perfumes. What I mean, its not just my name on the bottle, but I create, develop, package and market all fragrances from Therapeutate. The potential of this company is vast and has a future that reaches into global market shares.

The fastest growing areas in fragrance is “Naturals” and “Mens”. Botanical perfumes have made such a stir in the market place, even the large multi-nationals like Estee Lauder and Coty are rushing to develop lines that cater to this expanding niche. That puts us on the cutting edge and posed for success!

Therapeutate Parfums is building a vertical business, it will be a one stop shop for fragrance development, compounding, packaging and marketing of both natural and luxury perfumes. It will cover retail, wholesale and private label development, garnering profit flow from various sectors of the market place.

However, we really need you help at this very juncture. Having a flagship store creates a place to show off the TP experience and we have partnered with indiegogo.com and kickstart.com to help make this dream a possibility. Please visit these sites and show your support. There are also some leveled perks that you can take advantage of while they last, so jump in……..beat a drum, blow a horn, send up a smoke signal about our campaign.

As always,

INHALE LIFE

http://igg.me/p/199464?a=997979

Ode to Musk

Having contributed to the Mystery of Musk Project put on by the Natural Perfumers Guild, I was inspired to dig up this poem written a decade ago. I think it speaks to the power of natural fragrance and the allure of musk. There is no other perfume that speaks more powerfully to our sensuality or that connects us more strongly to our ancient beginnings. It is without wonder how important it is for artisans to endeavor the replication of this alluring scent while doing no harm to the lower animal kingdoms.

Luscious

You Moroccan spirit

Tying your frankincense

And myrrh scented scarf

Upon my head

I could feel my spirit tiptoeing,

Peering down into the gauze

Fashioned into the shirt

Covering your supple, sun-burnt skin

Wrapped sensuously upon your collar-bone

Speaking out to be touched,

Caressed by my hands

Black, silken hair meticulously drawn to your chest

I could smell faintly your musk

Rising to meet my every breath

And before I could breathe you in completely,

I trembled, damn!

Rodney F. Hughes, Bespoke Perfumer

TAPROBAINE et L’Automne (Fall 2010)

THREE SWISS CEDARS

Just a few weeks ago I received three vials of cedar perfume from the Zurich based perfumer Rashunda Tramble.

The first variation is a blend of cedar, tobacco, ginger, grapefruit and black pepper it is so very masculine and heroic. It enters the nasal passage, traveling up into the upper and back lobes of the head, then settles full bodied into my heart. It is a delightful fragrance that has a saturated earthiness about it. At the same time it’s deeply green, lush and manly. I envision myself wearing this fragrance day to evening in fall when the air is cool and crisp.

No. 2 is a combination of cedar, rose and ylang-ylang, this one is smooth and very gourmand. It has a sweet sensual quality and it’s all about having my nose close to skin, traversing ones neck, pelvis and inner thighs. This fragrance travels up through the top lobe of the head, down into the heart, the solar plexus and settles into the sacral. It’s divinely hypnotic and rather intoxicating.

As I was writing a funny thing came to me; the lyrics of this song filled my head.

Generations of love, generations of love

Generations of love, have done you wrong

I don’t know much, but I know what I feel

There’s too many people fighting, tied to the wheel

I don’t know much, but I know what I see

There’s too many people crying

Washed out to sea and there’s much more we can say

And there’s much more we can do

And there’s much more we can learn

Generations of love…….

 

Boy George, the Martyr Mantras

 I have always loved Boy George and Culture Club, while reviewing the cedars I was inspired to put on the album “Jesus Loves You.” The Boy’s music has always moved me, making me dance and think of the life through crystal lenses. This kind of innocence rarely shows itself any longer. Tramble’s experiment in cedar has taken me to a place of innocence that is as ethereal as Miles horn on Générique.

The final cedar in this triptych symphony is just as beautiful. Similar to No. 2, it too has rose sitting at the core traveling up and down the composition, but it’s bright on the top and middle. Cognac is the reason for this multiplication, vanilla and black pepper gives the rose depth. This perfume is divinely feminine and screams the power of a woman.

Tramble’s quality as a perfumer is most definitely the E. Butler brand of Octavianism. It has the sensibility of an artisan who lives across the centuries.

Rodney F. Hughes, Bespoke Perfumer

Ascent to Rememberance

My dad Roy L. Hughes, I – passed away when I was two and a half, so there were virtually no scent memories of him that I could recall. Unlike two of the scenes from the short time we spent together, the most vivid being picked up by Uncle so I could see my dad laying still, all dressed up and quiet.

Colour of Rememberance

The other time was him walking down the hallway on a winter night as I walked to the bathroom. This image stayed so strongly with me because he had already passed away.

I remember him and the blue flames from the open space heater vividly. Remembering things through scent is very awakening for me being a visual person, but since becoming a perfumer all kinds of memories have rushed into my head.

One day while in the West Village, I happened into Fresh to experience their fragrances and came across Patchouli Pure. Smelling this fragrance brought back memories of every influential man that had been a part of my life.

A Scent to Remember

It’s the kind of fragrance that wraps up the spirit of the ‘70’s and ‘80’s; it took me back to those times when I use to drift away on the wave of a day dream.

Suddenly, I could smell my dad as if he were standing very near to me. I was a kid all over again and could clearly smell him. That safety and contentment that a father can sometimes bring came rushing back for a brief moment.

Rodney F. Hughes, Bespoke Perfumer