How about starting 2015 on a high note with Au de Kolon by Canadian based perfumery TOULOUR. I have to admit this fragrance challenged my notion of what a “Natural” perfume is and should represent. However, I think it warrants an honorable mention.
First, just taking a look at the line up of notes: Mint, Honeydew Melon, Bergamot, Lemon, Citral, Civet Absolute, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Vetiver, Fir, Lavender, Clove, Green Leaves, it features many botanical notes. However, the Civet Absolute along with a few others got me thinking, “What is Natural Perfume?” What I will say although this Au de Kolon is certified as natural by TOULOUR, I would have to place it in a separate category for the simple fact it includes; Honeydew Melon, Green Leaves and Civet.
Being a Natural Perfumer working exclusively with botanical ingredients, I have to say certainly that, “natural” perfumery is fast becoming an entirely separate category from “botanical” perfumery.
Civet, that animalistic note given to many perfumes to introduce the character of sensuality and attraction. This component actually is considered “natural” being derived from the perineal gland of this mostly nocturnal mammal from tropical Asia and Africa. We commonly refer to it as Musk and boy are we crazy about this note! It can contribute just the right amount of stinky to any fragrant blend making the difference between a nice perfume and a wonderful creation. And yes, Au de Kolon by TOULOUR has this note which adds depth and a spiciness to this historical blend of Eau de Cologne. It remains watery or Marine as do most interpretations of the classic eau de cologne. However, this one has the sharp peppery, spice of Clove which figures strongly among the very green notes that are prominent throughout.
The opening on Au de Kolon is well in keeping with the classic notion, it has loads of citrus, however it moves into a Minty transition with Fir that balances the Lemon, Bergamot and Citral. It makes the top action going on in this fragrance extremely masculine, but slightly smooth around the edges by introducing the note of Honeydew Melon. While the top and middle notes dominate this classic take on the Eau de Cologne, the whole body is held so slightly together by the Patchouli, Oakmoss and Vetiver whiffing up from the bottom. The combining of these three notes serve as a prefect balance to the citrus top while being harmonized by a lavender core.
Overall, the silage of this fragrance is average and last 3-4 hours at best which is pretty much the expectation based on it being a cologne. Au de Kolon by Toulour will serve as a nice addition to any man’s fragrance wardrobe, its fresh, very masculine and spicy.
Rodney Hughes, Perfumer/Writer